Mandrarossa
A Taste of Sicilian Innovation
Many years ago the wines of Sicily were the great hidden secret of Italian winemaking, tucked neatly behind the colossal offerings from Tuscany and Barolo. Thankfully, they've found their feet and are now amongst those bottles that the wine-loving public speedily seek out.
I recently attended an online tasting given to celebrate the wines of Mandrarossa, an interesting producer located in the area of Menfi, and their claim is that they are working hard to craft wines that reflect Sicily's landscapes and microclimates. If these wines are anything to go by, then this is a vineyard I want to visit, because the flavours I found were really attention grabbing.
Not content to sit on their laurels, Mandrarossa are working with a team of international experts to study the micro terroirs and to release every piece of information from the five distinct soil types that nurture their vines so well.
The wines they are producing include Bertolino, Soprano, Grillo, Terre del Sommacco and the Sicilian classic, Nero d'Avola, and from what I sampled they are not only producing wines that excite, they are trying to encourage so many nuances in a glass that the taster can be overwhelmed by the wonderful tastes.
Mandrarossa is surrounded by a variation of landscapes that feed into the wines and give them such a distinctive feeling of terroir.
It's located right in the premier wine region of Menfi, close to the sea which can sometimes give the wines a nudge of the saline when tasting.
In terms of age, Mandrarossa is almost a baby, having been founded in 1999, but this youth is growing up quickly and turning out to be a very sophisticated grown-up.
In Menfishire, the Mandrarossa vineyard is gently cooled by a Mediterranean breeze that helps to bring a freshness to the wines they are producing.
The vineyard extends over 500 hectares, from an elevation of 400 metres down to the sea, and crosses over several districts that all help to contribute something to the wines that are being produced, and these range from the traditional Grecanico and Nero d'Avola, to the international varieties of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. They are also bringing innovative approaches to varieties such as Fiano, Viognier, Petit Verdot, Alicante Bouschet, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, and as I tasted I felt a real sense of excitement, and would urge you to seek them out.
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Fiano
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This little beauty loves the soil, and though it's not native to Sicily you wouldn't know it because it's not making a fuss.
The colour is straw, and on the nose I was getting notes of jasmine and basil.
The taste has a slightly salty edge because of its proximity to the sea, and surely that makes it marry well with sea food and light cheeses (ricotta).
The area is also famous for the production of artichoke dishes, and I can imagine it bringing out the best in those.
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Urra di Mare
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This has Menfi DOC written on the label, and I'm expecting something a bit special.
Thankfully, this Sauvignon Blanc is balanced more than I was expecting and the marriage of lemon and minerals don't overwhelm or offend.
The aromas are citrus, jasmine and basil, and I was also getting a pleasant hint of liquorice in the mouth.
There's a harmony about this wine that I really love, and it would be my choice with a lovely apple tart.
No wonder this is one of their flagship wines!
Nero d'Avola
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It might be the King of Sicilian wines, but is this Nero d'Avola giving a command performance?
Well there's a fine structure here, and it's origins at 250 metres above sea level bring out a freshness that doesn't make this heavy in the way Nero can sometimes be.
The colour is ruby red, and on the nose I'm getting cherries, red berries and mulberries.
This would work so well with Parmesan, cold cuts and beef dishes.
Timperosse
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This Petit Verdot is indicative of the fresher reds that people are searching for.
It's produced on south facing hills, near unspoilt beaches and is a single variety.
Taste those wild red berries and you'll discover that this is a light, juicy wine with tannins that are so soft they cuddle your mouth.
I'd recommend this with chicken, tuna and vegetable soup, but not all at once.
Such an interesting expression of this grape variety.
Bonera
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This is a blend of Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Franc, but is it a marriage made in heaven or hell?
The skin is thin and I imagine that the winemaker nurtures this wine like a baby. He must do because it has won a lot of awards and fans, including myself.
It's ruby red and has a medium body, and I'm getting those red fruits dropping by before almonds, balsamic and pepper want to join the party.
This wine would go well with grilled meat, aged cheese, and good company of course.
Cartagho
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This is 100% Nero d'Avola, and I just love what I'm getting from this wine.
It was a dream harvest, and being nestled in soft fresh soil has nurtured the grapes rather than getting into a struggle.
The colour is deep, intense and vibrant, and I would urge you to give it more than a moment of your attention.
On the nose there's a minerality that's so vibrant, before blackberries, liquorice, chocolate and wood bark appear like the cavalry.
The taste has hints of spice and balsamic, and there's such a lovely balance about this wine.
Try it with salted nuts, hard cheese, blackcurrant desserts, beef and game dishes, and for the 'veggies', the mushroom burger from the 'Mustards Grill' cookbook.
