Recommendations and Thoughts

it's not only the French who can be arty with wine

Bordeaux

En Primeur

Recommendations

and

Thoughts

So, what did I take away from my first (hopefully not my last) Bordeaux en primeur? The most important rule is to plan a strategy because there are so many people crammed into the spaces and not enough time to really try every single wine available.

The actual event I visited took place over three days (four if you included the press day beforehand) and although I attended for two days, I doubt if the extra one or two days would have allowed me to give each location more than I cursory visit.

Could each Cháteau make sure that there are plenty of tables available for people to write on. This is so important when it comes to helping make sure that the public are fully aware of what is being produced, and through detail, and the ability to write enough could be the difference between a few pithy remarks and an in-depth essay on why you should give your time to discover a hidden gem amongst the wines.

Isn't it about time that the French stopped resting on their laurels and delivered a variety of cuisine that covers a greater number of tastes. To be truly considered the best at producing the most wide-ranging edibles available, there should at least be a descent nod in the direction of vegetarian, vegan, gluten free, and all the other outposts of gastronomy.

In these days of the health conscious, it's just not good enough to think that a meat and fish based diet is what everybody wants, no matter if you disguise it under a delicious sauce, give it an romantic sounding name, and finish off the meal with those wonderful patisseries. When are you going to include everybody at the party?

This reminds me that if you're having catering at a sophisticated event like en primeur, it seems to go against the grain to have just a turn up, queue and tuck-in event. What about times being given and places being allotted. This will surely make people feel inclined to treat the event with more generosity. Computers and AI can surely handle the strain.

It would be great if the 'Big Boy's' actually turned up and paraded their wares with everybody else. The thing that made California successful in the past was the theory that if one wins, they all win. Not having the 'famous names' attend gave me a feeling that I wasn't worth bothering with, or that they weren't playing a 'team' game.

But let's take my gripes and moans aside and think about the event. It was a hit, and those I met and chatted with were in their element as they tasted a large array of balanced wines that had fought against the struggles of the seasons, put on their party frocks and displayed an ability to prove that modern winemaking practices can overcome most difficulties that are thrown their way.

The locations were fabulous and an excellent expression of the range of Châteaux making wine, who had put their best shoes on and offered wines in venues that were evocative, served by people who knew how to treat those visiting, and was organised (except for the food and writing tables) by those who are trying hard to prove that en primeur is still a valuable part of any wine calendar. I'm looking forward to a return visit next year, and it will be interesting to see if I'm invited to all aspects ('Big Boys' included) or have my one or two words of thought excluded me for good!

Brief Notes About Twelve To Taste

Château Carbonnieux

On the nose I was getting interesting green shoots amongst the dark cherry fruit, and then bell peppers come through in the mix.

When you taste, one gets a luxurious chocolate and a nice full mouthfeel. Wait a second and a rich plum sauce appears from nowhere like a magician's assistant.

Domaine de Chevalier

This interesting white gives a scent that is typical of Chevalier, and by this I don't mean that it's everyday. There's that creamy apple dessert and grassy undergrowth scent, and when you take the slightest of sips it feels so robust in the mouth.

Hello, is that crushed apple and gooseberry popping by to say hello from next door? Sit down, make yourself at home and stay a little while.

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

There's something I really enjoy about these wines. Is it the pungent nettle and crushed yellow pear that wipes your face gently like dabbing your mouth with a cotton napkin?

Those apples are so fruity they could tell naughty stories and you wouldn't be offended. On top of this is a smattering of icing sugar, and the big bold mouthfeel that just doesn't know when it wants to quit.

Château La Louviere

This creamy red and black fruit number is a solid entry from La Louviere and demonstrates that it's on the right track when it comes to their reds. The cassis passes by like a noticeable ghost, and you just know it is going to grow from being a noticeable youth into a teenager with a lot to say.

Château Pape Clèment

There's a new Pope in Rome and a new Pape gracing the glasses and tastebuds down in Bordeaux.

This slow-rising number gives you toasted apples and a clean pear juice like those that bathed the tinned fruit I loved as a kid.

The pear motif continues and then warmly welcomes Granny Smith apples before a strong backbone of grapefruit decides to play its part.

Château Le Bon Pasteur

This isn't always on my radar, but when I tasted this little lovely I just had to sit down and make notes because those interesting green stalks mixing with bumptious fruit are like a matron taking loving care of her patients.

Woody notes start us off before the wine gives you sweet shop liquorice, black pepper and the presence of pencil box.

Château Gazin

I must confess that I love the wine that is produced by Château Gazin. I know where I am with it, and I love what I know.

There's that soft red fruit appearing before it's chased away by a dark fruit sentry. Let it wallow in the mouth and feel the goodness of blackcurrant and dark plum in its place after a slightly subdued start.

Château Gloria

Van Morrison sang a song about Gloria. I don't think he had this wine in mind, but it wouldn't surprise me because the moment I tasted this number I wanted to sing its praises.

The blackberries and slight spice are almost playing hide and seek with your tastebuds as sweet brambles tie themselves with graphite flavours, cassis and a hint of cedar.

Keep working the wine and it's not long before the tannins take it to a noticeable level without mugging the wine.

Château Clerc Milon

The dark fruit has an urgency to be noticed, and it's not too long before small dark fruit (mostly blackberries and Boysenberries) juggle with wooden notes on the nose.

It's got more fumes than a gang of school smokers, and the pencil also takes me back to school stationary cases.

This is youthful, playful, fruity, dark and has a humidor of smoke coursing through its veins.

Château Lynch-Bages.

I welcomed this like an old friend, and it responded by giving my tastebuds a cuddle of familiarity.

Say hello to blackcurrant, black cherries and gunpowder before you welcome an abundance of dark fruit, pebbles, chocolate & coffee to this particular party.

It's a little bit lively, but when this settles down, it will get all the attention it needs without fighting for it.

Château Phélan Ségur

There have been moments when I've not been sure that Phélan Ségur have been on the path to viticultural heaven, and their vintages have sometimes gone a little rogue on me.

This is a mighty return to form and I found it to be just what the Bordeaux doctor ordered, because not only is the fruit dark mysterious, there's also a sweet and spicy sliver of something travelling through the middle.

I like the flavour of wooden box that supports a rich fruit that is full and powerful.

Château Doisy Daëne.

I always find that there isn't a Bordeaux party until the Sauternes and Barsac turn up, and this year they have shown up in style and presented themselves as the stars of this vintage.

I could have picked so many but settled on just this one. More fool me you might say, but it's so dreamy on the tastebuds with honey, marzipan and a light spice brushing the inside of your mouth that I'm still remembering days later.

Give it a moment and the honey becomes luxurious and a sin before toffee apple, bags of nuts and tastes that remind me to shop early for Christmas are in the glass. Get some before I beat you to the shop.

Photo credit for bottles to Vivino