Bordeaux En Primeur Day 2

Bordeaux en Primeur

Day 2 - The Storm Passes?

Château La Louvière

I’m really looking forward to today, and the wines that will be poured should be right up my rue. Not that yesterday was shoddy, but today brings a greater diversity of wines with the introduction of whites and dessert wines, as well as those marvellous right bank reds.

My first problem is to get hold of some toothpaste, because after yesterday's full day of tasting copious amounts of red wine my mouth looks like a murder had taken place. I cannot attend a tasting looking like Jack the Ripper, or should I say, Jack the Sipper!

I also notice that my left index finger has got a red blemish from me wiping my mouth constantly. Is this the wine writer's version of smoker's fingers, and what is the correct term? Attendee's digit or Taster's Toothbrush?

For this second day of this shortest of visits I've got to make my way from the rural flatlands of the Left Bank, where the dominate grape variety is Cabernet Sauvignon, and drive south where the whites and dessert wines of the Entre-Deux-Mers, Sauterne and Barsac grow before heading over to the Right Bank and into St-Émilion and Pomerol country.

While I love the city of Bordeaux, it can be a hell to drive through, and is best avoided by anybody who values their sanity, and the route I choose takes me close to the Atlantic, through towering wooden forests that stretch into the distance, and then passes through classic French towns and villages that you promise to visit next time, but wistfully know you probably won’t.

The grandest of the grand

Château La Louvière

I’ve been here before. A few years ago when my interest in wine was more of a hobby. I loved it, bought a couple of bottles which still rest at home, and felt this to be the most quintessential of French Châteaux. I promised myself a return visit one day, and am so pleased to be driving down their long driveway, looking at a place that has symmetry in spades, and class oozing from every column. For those who aspire to owning somewhere French that makes wine, set your ambitions towards Château La Louvière.

After yesterday's 'hit the ground running' approach I need a method, and decide that here I'll mostly stick to the Entre-Deux-Mers whites, and as you taste it’s interesting how subtle variations come in to play, although I do prefer it when the taste almost reminds me of glass.

I did try a few reds which could prove interesting in the next few years, before Sauternes and Barsac drew me like a besotted fan. I love these viscous comfort blankets so much.

Back in the car I check my red-stained teeth and give them a once over with the toothpaste before wending my way towards St-Émilion and…

Château Balestard La Tonelle

It lies on top of a hill and looks down on the opposition like the lord of all it surveys. It’s the sort of place that drowns you in photo opportunities and I’m trying hard to stay afloat. Boy, I’m a happy snapper!

Upstairs I taste, and taste again, but beneath the pungent fruit there’s something not quite right, not quite enjoyable and I don’t know what is happening because all the wines don't seem to be behaving themselves. After three tastings I give up the game, take a few more photos before heading over to Pomerol.

That is when I realise that the strange flavour that has interrupted the tasting is the toothpaste I used earlier. I could go back and see if I can play again, but I’m not sure if time is on my side so I press on. Harries, you absolute idiot! Lots of water, a slight journey and I’m back on track.

Château Gazin

This is my last stop and though the tasting is welcome, they’ve not prepared the correct amount of parking, and quite a few of us have to park on the road outside and walk whilst hoping the intermittent rain will hold fast. Thankfully, it does.

This seems almost earthy and reminiscent of the farmers in the bar last night. There’s an honesty to this tasting that I enjoy, which is more than I can say about the lack of writing tables once again. How do French wine journalists manage?

I do try about 12 wines from Pomerol and thank the heavens that my tastebuds are back in place. The wines are smooth, interesting and look set to develop beautifully, and like a good story, everything is in its place and normal service is back.

Storm clouds and the worrying walk from car to tasting

I try all but the last two and then it’s back to the car, a brush of teeth (doesn’t matter now) and a three hour drive home. I arrive, am more tired than I would have thought possible and I briefly weigh up the last two days and my first en primeur.

They need writing tables. Somewhere to perch and write. Mulling is a big part of the wine game and I found that valuable tasting time was taken up with trying to find a place to make my notes.

The lunch system needs revamping, and needs to cater to all options. Surely, a nation can only say it has a fine culinary tradition if it makes everybody welcome at the table (more serious thoughts to follow)

I tried quite a few wines and thank goodness I didn’t actually swallow them, otherwise it could have resulted in another Santa Rosa incident, and from my notes I'm going to put the areas in the following order.

1 - Pessac-Léognan Reds

2 - Sauternes/Balsac

3 - Pessac-Léognan Whites

4 - St-Estèphe

5 - St-Julien

6 - Pomerol

7 - Pauillac

8 - Graves Reds

9 - Margaux

10 - Graves Whites

Due to the toothpaste incident I didn't think it was correct to include St-Émilion and can only apologise for my stupidity. If I am invited back next year I will certainly be on form the next time I taste your beautiful wines.

the promise of what is to come