Colli Berici Tasting | Tony Harries

Colli Berici

The Palladian Vineyards

and the

Those wonderful people from Studio Cru put me on to the wines of Colli Berici and I was only too pleased to help them.

The wines arrived, were opened and tasted (notes below) and as I sipped, chewed and pondered, I was also searching the internet for more information about this most interesting of Italian wine regions. This is what I found thanks for the Consorzio Colli Berici.

'Colli Berici wines are a delightful representation of Italy's rich viticultural heritage. Nestled in the picturesque hills of the Veneto region, these wines offer a blend of flavours shaped by the local terroir. With a focus on quality and tradition, each bottle captures the essence of its origins, making it a perfect choice for any occasion.

'It's a tourist destination that perfectly combines food and wine with a beautiful landscape and ancient architecture. The terroir has a great wine vocation and ancient tradition, and with soils derived from marly, limestone, calcareous conglomerates, red clays and balsaltic rocks there's a special mix acting as the starting point for producing wines that are interesting to say the least.

'The density of villas in the region, designed or inspired by the famous architect Andrea Palldio make this an area that has earned the name, The Palladian Vineyards and have more class than a collection of revered universities.

'You don't have to travel far to find hills where poetic red wines are produced by producers who have chosen to grow their grapes here, but what of the region.

THE BERICI HILLS

The Berici Hills are an undulating formation that originated about 60 million years ago as a result of tectonic folding and lifting by numerous volcanic cones. Various geo-morphological elements of the Berici Hills region confirm the wine growing potential of the area. The chalky nature of the rocks has evolved into a terrain with red clays, rich in body, are suited for giving structure to the wine, while the volcanic cones have evolved the basaltic terrain which contribute to enhancing the subtlety of flavours and fragrances.

BERICI HILLS DOC: the wines

'There are 17 wines produced under the discipline of the DOC brand. The reds: Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenére, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Rosso, Tai Rosso. The whites: Bianco, Chardonnay, Garganega, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Spumante (Metodo Classico e Charmat).

'A protective consortium between 2002 and 2005, and in collaboration with the Veneto Region, implemented a wine production zoning project throughout the Berici Hills DOC region with the purpose of improving production by linking it more and more to the region, and taking advantage of the intrinsic vocations of the different soils that make up the region.

'The Tai Rosso wine is the symbol of the Berici Hills. With its lively ruby colour it presents notes of cherry, raspberry, violets and spices that triumph in the nose and on the palate.

'It is produced from the Tocai Rosso grapes, a native variety of grape that has a demonstrated familiarity with the French Grenache and the Spanish Garnacha, but which has found its own identity. Delicate and versatile enough to accompany most courses it is paired with it has a versatility that recommends it for most occasions.

'Until 2007 it was called Tocai Rosso, like the grape it comes from, but since there was already a Hungarian wine with the same name, by law it became necessary to change its title. Thus today it is called Tai Rosso.

'Currently Tai Rosso grapes are used to produce both a still and sparkling version, and together with Merlot it has also become part of the blend for the production of Colli Berici Rosso.

'The area of the vineyards occupied by the denomination Colli Berici is approximately 600 hectares and represents 42% of the denomination production of the entire province of Vicenza. In 2023 about 1.652.000 bottles were produced. 63% of the wine is produced from the red grapes, the remaining 37% from the white grapes.

The most widespread type is Cabernet, of which over 338.000 litres, about 450.700 bottles, were produced. The production of Tai Rosso, the native variety most representative of the Berici Hills region, was about 160.000 bottles in 2023.'

So that's what the website says, but what about the wines being produced? After all, you can't have Punch without Judy, and you certainly cannot have a prosperous wine region without wine, and you'll see from my tasting notes that I was quite impressed by what was going on inside my glass, so much so that I'm hoping to write a more in-depth travelogue and wine piece in a future edition. Now I'm off to sip some more and to dream of those Palladian villas.

Piovene Porto Godi Pazzare Cabernet 2021 - Del Maso

What a lovely way to start my tasting. These creamy blackberries are like a wonderful dessert, and next time I must try it with some fruits of the forest ice cream. Now there's a possible WOW moment.

There's a twinge of mint somewhere, and I'm not complaining because it fits just right, before that there's a comforting leather support that feels as though a sofa is cuddling you.

Hello blackcurrant, pepper and black cherry. You're present and correct in the mix and preparing me for the nudge of tar.

Carménère 2021 inama 21 carminium

A black coffee please, and this provides it without the bitter accompaniment. The black pepper is slightly too high in the mix for my liking, but that's just a personal choice.

It's a rich wine that deserves to be pondered over, but unfortunately the black pepper is not settling down too quickly. Give it a chance because coffee, wooden box and tobacco join forces to take this wine to a very successful conclusion.

Merlot Casara Roveri 2022 Dal Maso

This region has achieved such a variation in tastes that one could spend an age delving into what's on offer, and I hope to in the coming months.

Just as I got used to the last wine this Merlot decides to be cosy-up and be friendly, and the marriage of red and dark fruit leads to one of those moments when you take minutes to pin down what's in the glass.

The predominant flavours for me were a tasty chocolate, soft tanned leather, baking spices and a nice amount of blueberry that enjoyed dropping by.

Rosso 2021 Cantina di Gambrellara/Vitevis - Monopolio

I'm getting creamy blackberries on the nose again before an effusive blueberry odour sticks its head up to be noticed.

The taste starts with a sliver of bark, mint, steel and gun metal before the deep rich blackcurrant rides along with box wood and tobacco. Altogether, a very satisfying wine.

Tai Rosso 'Corallo 2021 - Cavazza

This grape is a relative of Grenache and there are a lot of similarities with the red fruit, mostly cherries, making their presence known.

A wonderful collection of spices keep the red fruit company, and then a tasty floral blossom is there and I'm a very happy little wine writer.

This wine has an acidity that's as well-balanced as a level-headed librarian.

Tai Rosso 2023 - Pegoraro

Lift the glass and say hello to a lovely aroma that just won't go away and makes you eager to taste those black cherries, blackberries and a subtle addition of red fruit, of the plum variety.

What a great way to finish off such a satisfying tasting.

All photographs were kindly provided by the consorzio Colli Berici