Atomos

A tale of beauty,

the sea, wine and Abruzzo

I've known Stefano for a few years, and I like to count him as a friend. He makes excellent wines, and that makes him a genius in my book, especially when you think that his training was as an engineer and not a winemaker.

I can't remember how I first became aware of the wines of Atomos, or what first attracted me; perhaps it was the unusual shaped litre bottles (they only sell litre bottles) the hand-stitched pouches they come in, or perhaps it's the continuing enthusiasm the company has for their wines. I'm hoping that this visit will reveal some of the magic.

I've interviewed him a couple of times (one by email and one by online call) and I'd promised myself that if the opportunity came, I would make my way to the southern half of Italy, to Stefano and Maria's lovely Abruzzo setting, and meet them in person, hopefully putting everything into context.

Our meetings, talks, chats (whatever you wish to call them take place over a couple of days, and a couple of meals, and I can only wish that my next visit to Chieti is as memorable. To transcribe them in full would take a book, and I hope that you and Stefano will forgive me for these brief snippets of chat.

The distinctive Atomos bottle. A litre of pure memories

Stefano: There is a lot of biodiversity in Abruzzo and the influence this has on farming is expressed, I feel, through the opulence of our products. There are about 300 wineries in Abruzzo producing a wide range of wine, with Atomos positioning itself in the top section. The area produces 18 million bottles, and in most countries this would be quite a substantial industry, but in Italy it is a production level that doesn't grab the attention.

The wines of Abruzzo are a testament to the region's unique terroir and climate. Our vineyards are set high in the mountains, in enchanting landscapes that offer abundant sunshine, mild temperatures, and rich and fertile soil.

As a result, Abruzzo's wines are distinct in character, full-bodied and aromatic, with a crisp freshness that is truly unforgettable. Whether you're a wine connoisseur, or just discovering the world of wine for the first time, you won't want to miss out on Abruzzo's exceptional wine culture.

Winefullness: You seem to be bringing about new ideas, such as using the sea as a place to store and age your wine. Is there anything else that you're doing?

Stefano: The underwater bottles are something particularly interesting. We work together with companies who specialise in underwater ageing to produce a wine that we think represents Atomos at its best.

Winefullness: I first heard of this happening in Greece...

Stefano: Change and evolution are part of what make Atomos exciting, and I find the results of underwater ageing to be quite interesting and something worth pursuing. I was reading a lot about it and eventually I found the companies who wanted to travel along the same path.

The wines of Atomos are like being cuddled by taste

Stefano with one of his babies.

'Change and evolution are part of what make Atomos exciting...'

I did talk to my father and he loves anything innovative. He was the one who noticed that a lot of tourism passes here and was searching for various ways to encourage links, and this included wine and olive oil tastings.

Winefullness: How did you arrive at the concept of Atomos? Weren’t you tempted to continue with the wine your family was already producing?

Stefano: My sister was producing that wine and I was working as an engineer when I realised that there could be practices and philosophies for wine that might come out of my engineering background. One thing that came to me was when I visited Crete and saw ladies destemming the vines by hand with a most unusual method of picking, almost nurturing single grapes with three fingers. That visit stayed with me, and the idea of adapting it as part of my wine philosophy grew.

The Atomos Barrel Room

But with beautiful bottles and not barrels

'I'm intrigued how this man occupies the small amount of spare time he has.'

Stefano seems to know a lot of people, and as we walk and talk there is rarely a moment when he's not indulging in conversations about a range of subjects in passing with a plethora of interesting characters, and while one is in his company a selection of warm and welcoming friends say hello and make you feel as though you've known them for years. I'm intrigued how this man occupies the small amount of time he has.

Winefullness: What does the rest of the week hold for you?

Stefano: We are waiting for the temperature to go down; not for me but for the wine.

Winefullness: The way you work your Trebbiano brings a level of sophistication that is often absent from this grape. Are you tempted to blend?

Stefano: We only want Trebbiano. One hundred percent of it.

Winefullness: You treat it with such tenderness and it responds well. The fruit is opulent and there’s a firmness like a resin in the backend that appears to be holding it all together.

Stefano: It helps with the ageing and it's meant to last for decades. The barrels we use protect the wine when it wants to oxidise. The acidity adds a freshness that constantly gives the wine life. The sulphates are there, but they’re only what is needed and no more. We tend to use less than we could do, but it’s enough.

Winefullness: There’s a balance to this wine that brings interest throughout. One keeps getting different things out of it, and it constantly evolves. I'm sure that the flavour profile has developed as we’ve been sat here. What else makes your wines different?

Stefano: All Atomos wines are made with indigenous grapes and this is one of our many selling points that bring people to us, eager to try our wines and become part of the Atomos family. All we will ever use are indigenous varieties.

Abruzzo is a generous host when it comes to growing conditions, and this makes it a natural area for exploring how to work with what you have. This, plus the three-finger picking system are part of our identity and will always be part of the Atomos DNA. I am sure this, and the sense of place make a big impact on the taste…

Winefullness: Yes. It’s refreshing to find that you have avoided the international grapes, and that you're ploughing a furrow that leads to such riches with such local identity.

Stefano: It helps that tourists and visitors now want to be exposed to genuine experiences and local flavours that provoke memories and lead the willing traveller into questions and ideas of terroir. I think our white wine is so food friendly.

It’s a lovely wine to share, and experience; from seeing the unusual shaped bottle to tasting and pairing with a wide range of produce means that this can’t be anything else but a wine for sharing.

Our winemaker has won so many prestigious awards and you can see this in the constant marriage between what you drink and the food you pair it with.

Another thing I discovered was when I tried some experiments with people who get headaches when they try a little wine. I asked them to sample Atomos, and we have found that these problems do not seem to occur. Our collection, with low sulphates, will allow the body to process these things easier. Alcohol content is high but it never threatens to dominate.

Winefullness: Have your children expressed a desire to enter into the wine business?

The Atomos offices

And tasting area with winery memorabilia

Atomos and wine. A collaboration

Stefano: My son is more into it. My daughter is very good at languages and I think she would be good in hosting and explaining. She’s a brilliant student, but for the moment she has her own road to travel. Once she decides what to do I hope that she will decide to join Atomos.

Abruzzo affords us many opportunities. For us, family is all important; Maria (the co-owner) works on olive oil, and my sister produces some of the finest saffron it is possible to find. This rests upon a wine of which we as a family are so proud. So you have wine, olive oil and saffron; the three excellences of our land. This rests on the Italian idea of family. What is not to enjoy?

Winefullness: You have said that you’re small in the market. How do you reach the next level?

Stefano: By impacting the wine with further innovation. I have divided our process into twelve steps that I feel are essential for good winemaking, and I know how to improve each section to reach an even higher point. I have a plan for improvements every year.

Winefullness: Are you going to continue with the extras such as packaging, bottle shapes, pouch packaging and olive oil production?

Stefano: Yes. That is fixed, apart from the back label which I don’t want any more because it doesn’t fit with what we are aiming for as a brand.

Winefullness: How involved are Maria and yourself with all aspects of design?

Stefano: This is something that is important and that will have very few changes. We worked with a consultant for months, everyday for at least one hour. It was a massive job from scratch to reach where we currently are.

The next thing we are going to look at is the website which we feel needs refurbishing so that the target audience will be addressed, and the e-commerce side will probably be phased out. When we started we realised that for the brand to survive, people need to become confident to be associated with it, because they then become ambassadors for our brand.

Winefullness: Did COVID affect your business?

Stefano: COVID was actually something that worked for us because it made us look at our business mode. It was possible for us to work from a distance, and explore opportunities. Once it stopped we started to harness the interest that had been building up through such difficult times.

Abruzzo is not for mass-tourists, but is a place to explore, and we have people touring here, wishing to find something different. These are the people we want as the base on which to build the name of Atomos.

Winefullness: Do you have vineyards in Abruzzo where people can just turn up for a tasting?

Stefano: People need to book one or two days in advance. Other brands might have the facilities where you can pop in but we don't work in that way. People have to have the intention to come here, or they arrive by chance, but we want them to make us a target destination.

There is a danger that if tourism in Abruzzo grows too much too quickly we won't be able to treat them to what Abruzzo is all about. Of course we welcome visitors. Italians are proud of what they have to offer, but we want to nurture visitors in a comfortable manner.

Winefullness: Abruzzo is indeed an hidden gem. You have a great wine and food culture. You have beautiful scenery and wonderful towns. I don’t understand why there aren’t more people flocking here?

Stefano: I told you. We are very proud. Most Italians are very proud of their region. Abruzzo is as proud of itself as the area of Sicily and if they come to visit they will see that.

Winefullness: How would you sum up the Abruzzo character?

Stefano: They take their time to understand you and then you are a friend for life!

And as our time comes to an end I do indeed feel that Stefano, and his family, have welcomed me and made me a friend for life. Abruzzo and Atomos are hidden gems for the moment, but they are going to be discovered and grow. I cannot see it staying small and hidden, and I would encourage you to pay a visit to both, eat the delicious food, chat with the wonderfully generous people and sample a wine culture that seems youthful and mature at the same time.

For More Information

If you'd like more information, the following websites will prove a great help.

ATOMOS

https://www.atomoscompany.com/