Ronchi di Castelluccio - The Taste of Emilia
Situated in the Modigliana hills, in the district of Forlì-Cesena, the Ronchi di Castelluccio estate looks like a promontory that protrudes from the sea around the surrounding hills, especially when the whole lowland is wrapped with a thick blanket of fog.
Modigliana is a stratification of sedimentary rocks that were created millions of years ago by the calcification of sands (sandstones) and clays (marls). Even today, soil continues revealing its past and bringing authentic underwater treasures to the surface every time the ground is explored.
Vineyards, are at an altitude of between 253 and 411 metres above sea level, with a slope of almost 40% situated on a vast area created by the falling of calcium salts from the water approximately six million years ago. It's an ideal condition for viticulture committed to quality, and it's where you'll find Ronchi di Castelluccio.
The winery was founded in 1974 by intellectual and film director Gian Vittorio Baldi, and was inspired by his visits to France. It is one of the oldest wineries in Emilia-Romagna and is located in the first heights of the Apennine Mtns, near the border of Romagna and Tuscany. There's good elevation, and this brings a freshness to the wines that is a constant when tasting. The philosophy they adhere to is of single vineyard production, and this gives a unique identity to each wine.
The property was acquired in 2020 by the present owners and one of their mission statements is to produce wines that have a reputation for longevity and quality, but as I look at the bottles I'm also seeing that a lot of thought has gone into the design of the labels, which are eye-catching and make them worth keeping as a momento, which I will, just after I've tasted the wines.
2022 Ronco del Re Colli di Faenza DOC Sauvignon Blanc
This is produced on the east side of the property and benefits from a marly limestone with sandy loam soil. The vineyard was planted in ’75, but was restored in 2019.
The colour is more woody and darker than some Sauvignon Blancs I've looked at and the nose and taste are giving me a salty, minerality with a long length and nice acidity,
It's bone dry, with citrus fruits, grapefruit, basil, lime, pineapple and hints of spice. Wait a second and slivers of wood can be found. It's quite a tart tasting wine that is a little tight and unrelaxed.
The Ronco del Re is the flagship wine and the vineyard stretches along a thin strip of land, located between the road and a deep cliff that separates it from the river (‘re’ in the local dialect). In this area, the vineyard captures the heat of the sun during the day, and I'm sure I can taste the sunshine in my glass.
2022 Sottovento Rubicone IGT Sauv Blanc
Sottovento is a Sauvignon Blanc that represents the best of Modigliana and embodies the essence of the terroir, thanks to the vines planted in 1989. The label is a small work of art like the wine it represents, and as I write these words, the empty bottle sits on my desk and makes me smile at the memory of tasting the wine.
This wine has a slightly softer colour than the first, but don't you think that this is pale in comparison, because it oozes more charm than a debutant at a coming out ball.
I'm getting a lighter, slight lemon with a sliver of lime. Hints of grapefruit, ripe apple and bags of juicy fruit won't leave and just want to stick around.
There's a slight tartness to the wine, but this is more pleasure than pain, and makes the arrival of minerals all the more welcome. This is a fresh wine that has lovely herbaceous notes coming through if you don't rush it.
2022 Buco del Prete Mondigliana Sangiovese
Buco del Prete is a Sangiovese cru, hand-picked with care from the vineyard of the same name. It was planted in 1989 and enhanced by the new owners in 2020.
The wine displays rich fruit, and is an excellent Sangiovese from Modigliana. The label evokes the historic Ronchi labels of the 1980s and features a drawing of the forest surrounding the vineyard, seen from the bottom upwards to create the impression of being inside a ‘hole’. The abstract colours of the label create an imaginative atmosphere, guiding the observer on a sensory journey.
This wine has some lovely fruit that marries cherries, blackberries, hints of liquorice and earth. It's a very good expression, and achieves balance, slight tannins, and an acid that is well integrated,
2020 Ronco della Simia
They saved the best of the best until last, and this Sangiovese is a delight to taste. There's cherry cola, tomato plant and basil that is so well-balanced and fresh, and it possesses good acidity and elegance,
The structure is complex, and I bet this wine will age better than a Hollywood star. I'm told that this Ronco della Simia is a Sangiovese known for its meatiness, and it has a thick skin that gives the wine unique characteristics that help with this.
This wine is also distinguished by its original label, inspired by the 16th-century drawings of the Bolognese naturalist Ulisse Aldrovandi.
What an excellent tasting. The wines not only surprised, they surpassed what I was expecting, and the next time I visit Emilia-Romagna, a visit to this winery and vineyard is a must, because if these wines are being sent out to taste, what beauties might they be hiding. Now that would surely make it worth a trip, as well as meeting this wonderful trio.
