Cantina Vignaioli Morellino di Scansano
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It's all at the Co-op
Meet the gang
About a month before the trip to Cantina Vignaioli Morellino di Scansano, I was fortunate enough to do an online tasting that really immersed the participants in the area and made me excited to think that soon I would be experiencing the terroir of the area in person.
At the moment, the main market is Italy, but as knowledge of this area of southern Tuscany grows, I see the rest of the world increasing their market share, as they sample the satisfying selections, which are often typical of this part of the world. It is interesting to hear about the history of wine production here, and that seems to stretch back to the Etruscans, who history will tell you knew a good thing when they tasted it. I turn on my computer, tune in to the internet, and join the tasting of the the wines.
The first one we taste is Vermentino, blended with Chardonnay, and is such a satisfying wine that I stop tasting and secret the bottle away for a later, longer appreciation.
The colour is straw yellow, and on the nose there are notes of citrus, perhaps a slip of wisteria is giving it a floral background, and as I taste this, just bottled '25 the finish is long without any bitter or salty notes that could arrive with the areas proximity to the sea.
This is a no-nonsense, youthful, everyday drinker that would be most welcome on a warm day where you lie back and imagine shapes in the clouds. I'd pair this with white fish, but I'm a veggie, so a piece of Pecorino will have to do.
Though the landscape around Maremma initially makes you think of Sangiovese, it's interesting to find just how much the whites are offering, and this wine is quite sophisticated. That could be because when you open it you find that it's not become sullen or unwilling to come out to play.
It's 100% Vermentino that's been produced at about 150 metres above sea level, and has been aged on the lees for six months. This makes it a lot more than a wine to guzzle on a summer's day.
That elegant nose produces floral notes of wisteria and honeysuckle, before honeydew melon and a minerality get involved. In the mouth it's so fresh and delicate, and age has not withered this beauty.
Scenes from the visit to the Cantina
The whites have won me over, and now it's the turn of the reds, and the opening gambit from Cantina Vignaioli Morellino di Scansano is a Capoccia Ciliegiolo.
This is the biggest variety in Maremma after Sangiovese, and the winery have spent the last ten years nurturing this grape, demonstrating its honesty and potential. The tannins are softer than Sangiovese, and they are very proud of it as it typifies what they are trying to do.
The colour is deeper, more purple, and I'm getting fruits of those beautiful Italian forests, ripe flavours, oodles of bouquets of summer fruits, and this makes me feel that this might be that light easy-drinking red some of us search for during the warmer months. Smooth, round tannins give this a richness that I wasn't expecting here.
In the past this was more of a variety used in blending, but perhaps its moment is at hand. It's good to see something traditional marrying well with a contemporary notion to create such a versatile wine.
Tuscany and Sangiovese go together like Italy and football, and this Roggiano goes to show that those north Tuscans aren't have everything their own way. Take a moment to stare into the glass at that garnet colour and see a depth that is typical and could have something to do with the terroir.
Taste and you'll get those dark fruits, woodland and a tickle of peppery spice. This is a wine for aging, and once again it's a wine to be enjoyed with good food and good company.
All too soon the final glass is being poured, and this is where the Vintage Reserve Roggiano takes a bow. It's spent between 4 and 5 months on the lees, and has been put in barriques for one year.
On the nose there are nuances that lead towards the balsamic and liquorice, and a lot of depth evolves if you leave it in the glass for a while.
While it's pleasant and young, there is aging potential and seeds of character that should only grow as this wine progresses on its journey. The finish is long and rounded, and I'd love to try this with truffles.
This was one of those tastings that ended far too soon, and I think I might have found an area of Italy that deserves exploration. If the land of Maremma is as beautiful and surprising as the wines then I'm already excited to be visiting. In the meantime it's good to know that these wines are available in the United Kingdom. I'll be trying my best to stock up on them when I next visit.
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Photo Credit - Elena Deganello