Winefullness Magazine
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The Wines
of
Collavini
Beauty Italian Style
There were nine of us at the Zoom tasting. All eager and enthusiastic as we're given the lowdown on how the weather plays a part in the wines of Collavini.
Last year was very dry and hot. It started in April and ended in September, Making the vineyards suffer a little bit. The vineyards that suffered the most were on the top of the hills, where the best grapes usually grow, and the high exposure and hot winds were a little unkind to the grapes, and didn’t nurture them. We're told that is was as though there was a hairdryer pointed closely at the grapes.
Eugenio, the top man, believes that geology is at the centre of his wine; especially with the climatic situation and a soil that seems perfect for viticulture. Fruili was dominated by tropical seas in the past and this is the basis for the variety of those soils. Sandstone and Marl are the main stay, and those cheeky little vines go very deep to reach the layers of rich minerals and reservoirs of water.
The winery is situated in Corno di Rosazzo, in the Collio DOC appellation, where it nuzzles again Slovenia, and the slopes become steeper and the cool 'Bora' wind brings freshness and higher acidity.
Their story began is 1896 where the founder, Eugenio Collavini (not the present jovial cove) supplied wine to sellers and noble families in Udine. It was his grandson Manlio who moved the company to its present location and introduced technologies that brought out the finesse of the grapes.
As time continued, a style of production was defined and became known as the Collavini Method. This relied upon long fermentations in autoclaves, followed by a twelve month refinement in the bottle.
The wines still retain the traditions of this production method, but have a modernity that comes from knowing how to get the best out of ones grapes.
The home of the winery is as magical an invitation to visit as the wines that are produced, and with a single view you can see a variety of slopes that emphasise colour and evocative odours from clones of yellow ribolla that have been planted.
The Eugenio Collavini who addresses us is a man worth listening to, because not only is his enthusiasm and passion huge and contagious, he also has a nice sense of self-deprecating humour. He is a man who enjoys company and throws off quips as though he’s an Italian defender throwing off attackers.
He is confident in his product, and thankful when the tasting starts, and I suspect that this is because he knows what great wines he is sharing.
The Wines of Collavini
Il Grigio Spumante 50o Anniversary.
It’s a sparkler that celebrates the 50th anniversary, and made with Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
It was actually used in ‘Harry’s Bar’ when mixed with peach puree, and this classic wine shows apple notes and a depth of flavour and length.
Eugenio didn’t like leading us tasters because he felt we would get it eventually.
The bubbles seem to be a signature. They are tiny and classic, and important for the direction of this wine. Eugenio’s father always told him that the difference between a good wine and a great wine relies upon small things.
There is a rich foam and continuous bubble intervention. The colour has a delicacy that can be enjoyed, and if you stare long enough and you'll see green strands develop.
It’s not hiding it’s breeding, and those apples, grapes and crusty bread beg you to notice.
I set this wine down for a few moments while I dealt with something, and upon my return it was carrying more bubbles than a van load of Michael Jackson impersonators.
A cream foam that oozes sherbet greets you. I’m getting pastry, icing sugar and a richness on the nose. The taste is opulent fruit that continues the wealth of tastes and adds lemon, baked Danish pastries.
5.5 out of 7
Ribolla Gialla Benedete IGT Venezia Giulia 2022
They say that this wine symbolises the rich history that courses through the veins of Ribolla, and its vibrant straw colour leads into a wine that’s fresher than a young man on his first date. I was getting notes of grapefruit and sun-kissed grass.
It’s a clean wine that feels balanced and easy to go back for more.
There are hints of gooseberry, minerals and white pepper with bags of juicy fruit in the mouth,
4.5 out of 7
Ribolia Gialla Turian DOC Friuli Colli Orientali 2020
This comes from the oldest vineyard the company owns. It’s aged in steel which might explain the cool crispness I’m getting in the mouth.
The nose on this is an elegant fruit salad of delights being presented in a floral bouquet of lemon tree and acacia. The citrus continues in the mouth and has the potential to entice.
There’s a nose of whipped cream resting on pungent green fruit, there’s also zesty lemon, citrus and bags of nose.
In the mouth there’s hay, grass, grapefruit and a tight tartness
5.5 out of 7
Broy DOC Collio 2019
The winery feel that this is where you should head if you want to leap into the elegant tastes of wines made here. They blend the grapes in a variety of steel, barriques and tonneaux, and this adds levels of complexity that are exciting.
It’s a straw colour that has a green hue. It’s intense and won’t keep quiet about how good it is. The body is longer than a supermodel, and on the nose, and in the mouth, you get honey, orange peel and flowers. There’s a warmth to the taste that is surprising and supported by stone fruit and freshness.
The fruit arrives on the nose and is evocative of summer nights in vineyard territory. I’m getting a hint of liquorice, green apples and lemon. There’s a woody odour that is interesting.
In the mouth there’s earthy wood, minerals, nettles, white pepper, tight grapefruit and green fruit.
It feels restrained and perhaps I've served it too cold.
4 out of 7
Forresco DOC Friuli Colli Orientali 2015
What goes nicely with the white wines of Collavine? A glass of this Forresco of course. It blends three base varieties into a wine with an alcohol content of 13.5%. There’s a density of textures that grab your nose and slap it with currants, blackberry picked on a foraging trip and plum.
In the mouth this grows and is bolstered by balsamic and spice. The tannins are persistent but not embarrassing. I’m onboard for more.
Oh this is lovely, and proves that many a good tunes is played on an old violin, or rather an old vintage.
The vapours are educated and complex, and I cannot believe that this is only four years older than the previous wine. There’s caramel, and a floor polish scent running through the wine, and a delicate floral note mixed with a hedge in a slight breeze.
Try it in the mouth, and you’re getting a polish that reminds one of your school days. There’s a viscous oily taste in the front of the mouth that takes one by the hand into the world of fruit that is about to fall from the tree, and what an opulent backbone. I’m still worried about that dusty taste/odour that hangs about, and this is reflected in my score.
The nose has layers of toffee, spicy fruit and blackcurrant, and in the mouth there were dark fruits and chestnuts.
5 out of 7
